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wiring guide book pdf

Basic Kit Additional hardware

If you purchased a DIY Basic kit you may also need the following, or some variation thereof.
1. An Enclosure
2. (2) L5-15 type outlet and plugs for up to 2 pumps
3. (2) L6-30 type outlet and plugs for up to 2 elements
4. (1) L14-30 type inlet and connector for 30a power supply,
a. Recommend CS6364C connector and CS6375 type inlet for 50a or a cord grip for
6/4 SJOOW cable as an alternative.
5. (6) feet of 6ga wire for 50a panel, 10ga for 30a panel for inside
6. (16) feet of 10ga wire for element wiring
7. (30) feet of red 14ga wire
8. (25) feet of white 14ga wire
9. (40) feet of red/black 16-20ga wire for low 5v/SSR circuit
* If you can, we frequently use multiple colors for reflecting elements, pumps, etc.

and their specific control and LED circuits. For example, we use 16 feet of yellow and orange,
cut into two 4 foot and one 8 foot lengths, 4 from the BCS to the switch, 4 from switch to
SSR, and 8 for the loop across the 2 legs of the elements 10ga wire.

Additionally, we use
8 foot cuts of blue and purple for the pumps BCS signals.

*** PID design would exclude
the pumps, and first 4 foot cut.

Temperature Controllers
Most important to any build is a means to control temperature.

For BCS configurations you will
need either the BCS-460 or BCS-462.

Whereas for PID, you will have a few options, but we
recommend sticking with known brands such as Love and Auber.

In your schematics you will find
the Auber SYL-2352 pins.

Tools you will need
1. A good pair of wire cutters, you’ll be using them a bit
2. A good pair of wire strippers are highly recommended as you’ll be using them quite a bit.
3. Flat and Phillips head screw drivers
*While both are needed or used, a good ¼” flat will go a long way.
4. 7/8” hole saw drill bit or step bit for LEDs and switches holes
5. Drill with a good bit for pilot holes, usually 1/8” is adequate
6. Rotary tool and/or angle grinder for cutting large square holes
7. Using our flanged twist lock outlets/inlets then you will also need:

Laying out a panel door
First step in the process is to design your panel: Plan first, cut last.

There are many ways you can
lay out your panel, but knowing what the indicators and switches are intended to convey will
help you determine the best layout for your own.

What Size holes are you going to drill?
– For switches a 7/8” hole
– For LEDs a 7/8” hole
– For the XLR Network connector, a 7/8” hole
– For Flanged inlets for 30a and 50a power supplies you will need a 2-1/4”
o For Green Lee hole saws, you may have trouble finding 2-1/4”, we use 2-1/8” and
grind out due to availability problems (discontinued as of 1/1/2014).
– For flanged outlets for elements, a 2-1/8” hole
– For flanged outlets for pumps, a 1-3/4” hole
– For XLR Connections, 3/4″ hole

Before you start wiring
It is important to note a few steps in the build process here, as well as a few key design aspects.
To keep things as simple as possible, it is generally easiest to work in segments; while this book
combines door and enclosure wiring, each aspect can be considered a separate stage. The
reason for combining door and enclosure layouts going forward is so that you may see the grand
plan as you build.

As you begin to wire your panel, you can consider your build in 6 stages:
1. Drill, cut and otherwise prep enclosure.

If desired sand and paint it, allow to dry a
minimum 24 hours to minimize damage from working on the wiring.
2. Place hardware on the mounting board from the enclosure, but keep the board out of
the box. Wire this board as much as possible, it’s okay to sacrifice some excess wire later
for a cleaner and easier finish later.
3. Wire the door with the common, the 110v, and in case of BCS the 5v+, while it is still
detached from the enclosure, this way you’re not straining yourself or the door hinge
more than necessary.

4. Install the heat sink on the enclosure, and wire it with the low voltage points (+/- input
side) wires towards the back of the enclosure.

Once these wires are in, install the board,
wired. Once the board is bolted down, install the flanged outlets and inlets, XLRs, etc.

As mentioned before, a good 3mm and 8-32 drill and tap bits are handy here.
5. Once the outlets are installed, attach the wired door, and wire it up.
6. If all is good to go, test.

Layout Updates – Revision August 2015
As a means to provide some additional guidance in line with updates to our own designs, it’s
best to add to rather than remove dated info.

For many years we relied on the SSRs for the
alarm and pumps, but through time and practice, new products have been put in action and we
find them to work better and more easily for our needs.
Today we use a 12v power supply combined with a din mount triple SPDT relay board. Unlike
the SSRs, the SPDT relays do not leak current.

While not significant in the capacity of their use,
the reliability of the relays has proven to be much better especially when put in use with
solenoid valves, such as in the case of gas systems.

As a result of the new relay boards, we have
to power the coils, in this case they’re 12 volts, therefore make the power supply necessary. For
some added benefit we wire the 12v power supply inline so that when the e-stop is hit, the
power supply shuts off, as does the 110v feeding the pumps, doubling the impact in other
words.